This Is American Soccer, US Soccer, MNT, WNT, and MLS - Tackling the subject of Soccer in the US, and worldwide.

so, you’re crossing the border for usa v mexico on august 12 at azteca.

now what gringo? welcome to the TIAS and Du Nord travel special

Across the Rio Grande River, through the Sierra Madre Mountains, in the Basin of Mexico, next to the Volcano Popocatépetl cultural beauty sits amid chaos, built layer upon layer through history. If a city was soccer, it would be Mexico City and its 19 million inhabitants—history, brilliance, art, and madness.

Walking out into the thin air of Estadio Azteca you are greeted by the jeers of 100,000 Mexico fans. It is both incomprehensible and exhilarating, like the city itself. How can so many people fit in one place, and how is it possible that an American can find himself in the middle of it all? Azteca may be the best backdrop for a World Cup qualifier, Its wall of sound encircling a field, buzzing like a beehive.

This is Mexico City, a junction of history and people so big that you can’t understand it all, yet you can’t help but want to try. What better way to see one of the world’s largest cities than to combine it with a visit to Estadio Azteca for a World Cup qualifier? And what better way to take in a USA v Mexico than to mix it with Mexico’s fascinating history, outstanding food, and rich and diverse culture? Would it be too much to hope for a USA victory? Regardless of the result, this is the best trip a US soccer fan can take. Will you be there?

—-

Orientation

Before reading the guide, get an idea of the layout of the city and some of the areas we’ll be referring to by reading about them here. Andy Wattenhofer created a map which locates many of the places mentioned in this guide. We suggest a tour book such as Daniel Schecter’s Mexico City (city guide) for greater detail on the places and history of Mexico City.

Benito Juárez International Airport [map]. The airport is located on the eastern side of the city. It seems small for an airport that serves one of the largest cities in the world. There are various restaurants inside the terminal, including the mandatory McDonald’s. After disembarking from your plane, you will be guided to the customs area for the usual passport stamping activities. When you walk out to the arrivals area, you will be greeted by throngs of people waiting for their family members and business contacts. Most of the signs are in Spanish, but there are easy symbols on them to help you along. The taxi stand and the Metro station will be well off to the left side but just follow the signs to find them. For more information on ground transportation to and from the airport, see the ground transportation section below.

Centro Historico (sen-tro ees-to-ri-co) [map]. This is where it all began, the historical center of Mexico City located to the west of the airport and right in the middle of Mexico City. At the core is the Zócalo (SO-cah-lo), with the expansive Plaza de la Constitución, Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace, and various other Spanish colonial buildings. There are many museums, street markets, and restaurants also located here. Take the Metro to the Zócalo station.

Zona Rosa (so-na ro-sa) [map]. Continuing west and slightly to the south, is the Zona Rosa (pink zone), a hotel, shopping, restaurant, and entertainment district. We’ve stayed at hotels in this area and found it to be clean and safe. Take the Metro to the Insurgentes (in-sur-HENT-es) station.

Polanco (po-lahn-co) [map]. This is the expensive, upscale area of Mexico City north and west of the Zona Rosa. We only include it here because some people suggest it as a safe place to stay for foreigners. We’d recommend the Zona Rosa as a better alternative for its location and options. The National Anthropology Museum is located here so you will want to visit the area. Take the Metro to the Auditorio station.

Condesa-Roma (kohn-day-sa roh-ma) [map]. This is a freshly revitalized housing and entertainment area south of Polanco and the Zona Rosa. There are fashionable clubs and restaurants here if you’re looking for a night out. Take the Metro to Chapultepec station and walk south and east to find the fancy joints.

Estadio Azteca (es-TA-dio ahs-TE-ca) [map]. The big stadium is located in the far south of Mexico City, to the south and east of UNAM, the national university of Mexico and home of UNAM Pumas.

Xochimilco (so-chi-MEEL-co) [map]. Further south and east of Azteca is Xochimilco, a town of canals that you may recognize from Anthony Bourdain’s show on the Travel Channel. This is where the Island of the Dolls that Bourdain visited is located. For details on getting there, have a look at the suggested itinerary section below.

Teotihuacán (tay-o-ti-wah-KAHN) [map]. This is the complex of pyramids and ruins dating back to Aztec pre-Columbian America. Take a day trip and spend some time walking around the complex, it is well worth it. For details on getting there, have a look at the suggested itinerary section.

—-

Estadio Azteca

The Experience. It is difficult to be inconspicuous in the stadium when you’re wearing the colors of the USA. When you walk out to your seats with a group of Americans, the entire stadium will whistle in disapproval. People will yell things at you. Some will approach and pose amongst us while their buddy a few sections away takes a picture. Have fun with it and try to take it all in. Most Mexicans are polite and friendly, just like us.

There will likely be one or more points where a large American flag will be unfurled in the section: during the national anthem and after any goals we might score. This is where we’ll hear the loudest jeers, and we may have a few things thrown at us from other sections. Keep your eyes open and watch your back and your neighbor’s back.

If you choose to buy tickets on your own and sit amongst the Mexican fans, you’ll be a lot less conspicuous. As long as you’re not in the midst of a supporters club, we don’t see any danger in doing this. A good personality and sense of humor will help you.

Tickets. US Soccer is holding a lottery in order to supply tickets to US fans. The lottery is past and was only opened to Supporters Club members. After filling those orders, if tickets remain, they will be made available to the general public. This will be in addition to the option provided by Ole Ole for transport-and-ticket packages. if just purchasing a game ticket, you’ll have to get to the stadium by Metro or a cab set up through your hotel. Grabbing cabs on the street as you do in the U.S. is strongly discouraged.

—-

—-

Getting There. If you are with Ole Ole, you’ll get a bus ride to and from the stadium. Don’t hang your flags out the windows or they will be set on fire. Do open the windows to purchase merchandise from the street vendors as you approach the stadium.

If you are taking public transit, take the Metro blue line (a.k.a. line 2) to the Tasqueña station. From there you must transfer to the Tren Ligero, the tram. There is a separate fare of MEX$2 for the tram. Take it all the way to the Azteca station.

Security. We’re still waiting on details from US Soccer about security details. In past years they have worked with the Mexican authorities and the US State Department to have police guarding the section where the bulk of the US fans are located. There will probably be empty buffer sections separating us from the Mexican fans. Don’t be surprised to see German shepherds in the trench in front of our section. The field is surrounded by a chain link fence and there are fences between the side and end sections. Don’t be too concerned. The main threat is cups of beer flying down from above. Just be aware of your surroundings.

Tours. We’re still trying to determine if we can do this the week of the qualifier. The tour walks you through the museum with a lot of historic items from Club América, gets you onto the field, the stands, and into the changing rooms, while giving the history of this footballing landmark. There is also a souvenir shop. See Visita Viva America (translated).

UPDATE: Azteca stadium will be closed (no tours) Monday and Tuesday, 8/10-11, for preparation for the game. The stadium opens again to the public Thursday and Friday, 8/13-14, from 9am-4pm. No reservation needed; just show up; cost is 20 pesos, about $1.50

—-

—-

Mexican League Soccer

“For people who are coming in a few days early or staying a few days later,” Grant Wahl wrote over email when asked for his travel suggestions, “there are some other decent games going on.”

It’s in Spanish, but Medio Tiempo has the run down on schedules.

“The FMF league game on the 9th (Toluca-Pumas at Toluca),” wrote Wahl, “should be fun. Toluca’s got a cool stadium about 30 miles outside Mexico City at a killer altitude, Pumas is a DF team with lots of support and the Toluca Red Devil fans are a hoot. (I’d suggest watching the game with those guys.) First round Copa Sudamericana games are also going on from the 11th-13th. On the 16th you’ve got Pumas-Tigres (Mex City) and América-Atlas (Azteca) as two more pretty good league games.”

General travel rules from the stalwart reporter? “I’d say to just be smart and aware. In that way it’ll be good training for going to South Africa next year. If I can get clearance to go, I plan on staying in the Condesa neighborhood again. It’s a cool part of town.”

Added the Washington Post’s Steve Goff over IM: “Don’t enter a renegade taxi — your life depends on it. Prepare for high altitude (7,350 ft). Not hot, but air is bad. Visit Zocalo, Plaza San Jacinto market and Floating Gardens/Xochimilco. Eat well. Worship Azteca.”

—-

zocalo square

—-

Accomodations — Where To Stay

Finding available rooms should be a lot easier with the slump caused by the swine flu paranoia. We chose three options to fit three styles and price ranges. There are many similar options out there so don’t be afraid to check others. But care should be given to selecting a location for safety and convenience reasons. If safety is your main concern, consider the Zona Rosa, Polanco, and La Condesa areas; be prepared to pay the same prices in these areas that you would in the U.S.

Budget/Hostel: Hostel Catedral [map]

The last time we were in Mexico City, a visit to this hostel to meet some other USA fans was all the convincing we needed to add it to our 2009 trip itinerary. Located in the Zócalo area and named for the nearby Metropolitan Cathedral, Hostel Catedral is a good choice for its amazing location in the historic center of the city, its cleanliness, and its low prices. Join us won’t you?

Hostel Catedral has shared dorms and private rooms. Dorm beds may be booked online. If you would like to reserve a private room, there is a contact form on the site to do so. They may request that you book a dorm bed and then email the confirmation number to them so they can upgrade it to a private room reservation.

The Hostel has computers with paid internet access, a rooftop terrace with a bar, a cafe with doors opening out to the street, and free breakfast.

Location: Take the Metro to the Zócalo station.
Hostel Cathedral
4 Calle de la República de Guatemala
Ciudad de México, DF 06000
01 55 5518 1726

Mid-range: Apartamentos-Hotel Avilla [map]

Although we have not visited this place, the reviews on sites such as TripAdvisor and Kayak give us reasonable confidence that it is safe and clean. It is located in the Centro Historico district three Metro stops from the Hostel Catedral. The rooms are more like small apartments, with separate kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom areas. Cable TV and free WiFi are some additional amenities.

Location: Take the Metro to the Hidalgo station.
Apartamentos-Hotel Avilla
Calle Sombrereros
Ciudad de México, DF 06030
01 55 5518 5618

Upper-range: Galería Plaza [map]

This is the place we stayed at the last time we were in Mexico City. It is exactly like a four star American hotel with all of the amenities one would expect. It is located in the Zona Rosa area, with lots of bars and restaurants nearby. Choose this if you are looking for a comfortable room in a safe and convenient area of the city. Or there is always the Four Seasons.

Location: Take the Metro to the Insurgentes station.
Hotel Galería Plaza
195 Calle Hamburgo
Ciudad de México, DF 06600
01 55 5230 1717

Four Seasons
Paseo de la Reforma #500 Colonia Juárez, México, D.F., México, 06600
Tel. 52 (55) 5230-1818

—-

Ground Transportation

The subway system, known as the Metro, is so easy and cheap that there is little reason to use anything else. You can ride it from the airport to the hotel areas and to the tram that goes to Azteca. It may seem unintuitive, but the Metro is as safe if not safer than a taxi.

The usual rules for safety and crime on subways apply here. Don’t ride in empty or nearly empty cars, travel with a group, watch for pickpockets, and don’t be antagonistic. If you ride the Metro to Azteca, you will be a target. Stay with a group and have fun with it.

The cost of a subway trip is 2 pesos, about US$0.15. The ‘$’ is used in Mexico for pesos, so the price will be denoted as $2 and it will throw off your internal budgeting computer a few times. They’ve recently updated the stations with ticket machines and rechargeable fare cards (translated) are available for 10 pesos plus 2 pesos per ride in any quantity. At those prices, US$6.00 should be enough for a week of travel. Can it get any better than that?

The subway works like most in the world. Each line has a color and a name and the directions are indicated by the names of the end stations. The system was designed when illiteracy was high in Mexico, so there are also symbols for each station and it is easy to use even if you don’t know Spanish.

To get to Azteca, you take line 2 (blue line) to Tasqueña and transfer to the Tren Ligero (Xochimilco Light Rail). Go nine stops and get off at the Estadio Azteca station. There is a separate fare of 2 pesos per ride and the Metro fare cards are not valid.

If you must take a taxi, follow these rules: never hail a taxi on the street. Always have your hotel call a trusted taxi. If you are at the airport, there is a taxi stand where you can buy a ticket for a licensed taxi. Know exactly where you are going and don’t expect the driver to speak English.

Our Google map of Mexico City has all of the subway stations on it for your trip planning pleasure.

—-

Suggested Itinerary

No itinerary should be set in stone, but these are the things we hope to be checking out during our stay in Mexico City. This is a lot to do, so be prepared to be exhausted when it is all through. We hope to see you there!

** Note most museums are closed on Monday

Sunday

National Anthropology Museum (hours 9am-7pm; cost MEX$51)—This is the perfect introduction to the history of Mexico and a great place to start before going to see the pyramids in Teotihuacán. It is very big, so focus on “Sala Teotihucana” if you’re planning on visiting Teotihuacán.

Time permitting, visit Templo Mayor—This is a ruined Aztec temple in the Zocalo, with an attached museum.

Mexican league game: Toluca-Pumas at Toluca

Monday

Tuesday

Xochimilco—This is the area of canals at the southern edge of Mexico City. It should be a good way to relax. You can hire a gondola to take you around. To get there, take the Tren Ligero to the Xochimilco station. Walk north to the Embarcadero to hire a trajinera (gondola). Prices should be posted. There is also a tourist office nearby should you need help.

**After some discussion, it seems the unfortunately named sports bar, Yuppies, will be the site of Tuesday night’s USA fan party. Yuppies is popular with Mexicans and tourists alike for its sports on TV, including the NFL, which is rapidly becoming more popular south of the border.

Wednesday

USA-Mexico at Azteca! Get breakfast and then start making your way to the stadium.

Thursday

National History Museum (hours 9am to 5pm; cost: MEX$51)—Not to be confused with the anthropology museum, this is the history museum located next door.

Friday

Centro Artesanal la Ciudadela—If you would like to do some shopping, this crafts market may be the place. Take the Metro to Balderas station and walk north along Calle Balderas to get there.

Lucha Libre at Arena Mexico, 8:30 PM—From the New York Times: “the city’s top lucha libre site is Arena México (189 Calle Dr. Lavista in Colonia Doctores; 52-55-5588-0385). Tickets start at MEX$40, but spring for a ringside seat (up to MEX$210). Matches last about two hours, although an hour is more than enough time to get your fill.” Take the Metro to the Cuauhtémoc station. Or, from Centro Artesanal, walk south along Calle Balderas through two intersections and then take a right turn (go east) on Calle Doctor Lavista one block.

—-

—-

Places To Eat and Drink

Cafeina: Corner of Av Juan Escutia nd Av. Nuevo León in La Condesa; several blocks directly south of Sevilla Metro station. This is a relaxing place for drinks and is co-owned by Mexican actor Diego Luna of Y Tu Mama Tambien fame.

Doña Anastasia (Quesadilla lady): Corner of Calle Segunda Chilpancingo & Calle Huatusco in Colonia Roma Sur; directly south of Chilpancingo Metro Station. Fans of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” show on the Travel Channel will recognize this place. This is the street vendor where he got the hand-made blue tortilla quesadillas.

Fonda Margarita: Calle Adolfo Prieto 1364B; far south of La Condesa; about halfway between the División del Norte and Mixcoac Metro stations. Another Bourdain spot, this is the place where he got the amazing looking breakfast that was prepared in the giant pots in the early hours of the day.

Taquería el Huequito 2: Calle Simón Bolivar 58; one block east of the San Juan de Letrán Metro station; just south of the intersection of Calle República de Uruguay and Calle Simón Bolivar. This is another Bourdain joint, this time a taco stand. Actually, he did not visit this one, he went to “Taquería el Huequito (the original one)” couple of blocks to the west. Either one is fine, but #2 has seating.

La Ideal: Republica de Uruguay 36; two blocks east of San Juan de Letrán Metro station; just south and west of the Zócalo. A highly praised bakery (no relation to Pastelería Ideal a few blocks away).

Pastelería Ideal: around Calle Dieciseis de Septiembre 3; just two blocks north along Av. Lázaro Cárdenas. This is a highly acclaimed bakery for breakfast or just cofee and a treat.

Restaurante Arroyo: 4003 Insurgentes; a couple miles south and west of Estadio Azteca; for this one you’ll probably want to arrange a taxi to take you there. This one comes as a recommendation from Chicago chef Rick Bayless: “huge and raucous and specializes in pit-cooked lamb barbacoa and tender pork carnitas; it’s rarely filled with less than a thousand people (especially on Sunday afternoon, prime time) and there’s always a traditional mariachi floor show, as well as roaming bands playing in different regional styles.”

El Baijio (Polanco branch): Alejandro Dumas 7 in Polanco; north and west of the Auditorio Metro station. Another recommendation from Rick Bayless: “it’s homey and wonderful and has a menu filled with the flavors of Veracruz (in spite of its West-Central name).”

Fonda El Refugio: Calle Liverpool 166; just west of Insurgentes Metro station on Calle Liverpool. This is a traditional Mexican place with reasonable prices and good service. A great place to unwind after a long day.

More Links

• Our Google map with all of these places and more
• National Museum of Anthropology site in English
• National Museum of History (Spanish)
• Templo Mayor museum site (Spanish)
• Good summary of Teotihuacan
• Mexico City tourism guide
• New York Times 36 Hours In Mexico City

—-

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that this article was almost fully put together by du Nord’s Bruce McGuire and fellow Minnesotan Andy Wattenhofer. All due praise. Trip of a lifetime.

FOLLOW TIAS AND DU NORD ON TWITTER